A riff on a jean jacket: Vogue 1644

I totally get the compelling reasons to own and wear a classic jean jacket: it’s timeless cool kid style; it’s high-low versatility; and it’s season spanning powers. I have dabbled in jean jackets in the past and owned and worn a few- the best one was purchased second-hand when I was just out of University and living uptown.  It’s been a minute since I had a denim jacket in my closet, and with the change of seasons approaching, I thought long and hard about making one as I continue towards my goal to create a mostly handmade wardrobe.  But, despite the allure of the traditional jean jacket, and the brilliant and tempting patterns here and here, I went down a slightly different jacket path with Vogue 1644.  I decided to make something that would be kind of a cross between a denim blazer and denim jacket.

My unorthodox idea was not popular in the family.  Both adult daughters expressed disapproval when I sent them a pic of the nearly finished jacket asking about button choices. A big thumbs down -and I think they used the word matronly. Hmmmmm- matronly defined is “a staid and conservative older woman". I admit I lean conservative in dressing, and I am an older woman. Perhaps I should not be put off by that word. But let me point out- in real life, as an advocate for people experiencing homelessness and previously working to provide health care for individuals without insurance, I am staunchly liberal in my point of view.

In any case, their comments were not as troublesome as my hassles with top stitching.  In this jacket mash up, I went with traditional gold buttons for that blazer feel and decided to add top stitching in gold thread to match and to evoke jean jacket style.

 I used two gold threads through the top needle for a pretty perfect traditional topstitch color.  Because this jacket has a fold-over collar, the topstitching shows from both sides in front.  So I wound a bobbin with two threads, knowing I was playing with fire- and gave it a go but that was a messy disaster.  So I went back and used one thread in the bobbin, the recommended way.   But I had to pick a point midway up the bodice topstitching to stop and turn the piece over so the thread would show on top.  If you look closely you can see the turning point.  Not terrible, but not ideal.

The pattern calls for finishing the facings -shown below -with bias trim.  I finished the back center seam with a mock flat felled finish which looks spiffy with gold top stitching down the back.

This is a well drafted pattern.  The collar is perfect and I really appreciate the two piece sleeves which are so comfortable to wear.  This jacket is drafted with plenty of room in the bust.  I am actually much better suited to the traditional tomboy jean jacket fit, and this jacket probably has too much ease in the bust for me- not terrible, but not ideal.

The sleeves are also surprisingly short.  I only had room for a narrow turn under and top stitch which is never the case.  I almost always have to shorten the arms in a big three pattern.

The youngest daughter softened her disapproval a bit, once I style the jacket, but the middle daughter was not swayed.  I am not surprised because she is a devotee of the classic jean jacket and probably considers this riff a bit of a sacrilege. And actually, this denim jacket is so useful and versatile, maybe I could use a traditional jacket too!

Mild mannered moto jacket

I have always been drawn to leather moto jackets- they are so chic- but I never felt I could pull this style off authentically.  When I stumbled across the moto jacket in this Butterick pattern. I decided to give it a try in a softer, gentler fabric choice.

I used a boiled wool from Emma One Sock. There are plenty of these boucle fabrics around- you can find them in 100% wool- typically more expensive -or in an affordable wool rayon blend like I used. 

The fabric is drapey- so the jacket looks a lot less structured than in the pattern pic. It was easy to sew up, but I ran into TWO fit related problems.  Even though I cut the jacket in the smallest size- it was too large and sloppy in front.  So, I took the jacket apart. Yes- this was after it was put together AND after I had already topstitched the seams -ARGH!  I scaled down the front bodice pieces and kept the body pieces of the back and sleeves mostly intact.

Second- you will notice the hem extends beyond the zip- once I tried it on, I wanted more length.  I may be short, but I have a long waist.  I ended up using a knit binding to face the hem for additional length. Because the look is soft and sweater-like, I didn’t add a lining.